Ferry Training, Mine Sweeper Public Display, and Cycle Ship: The Mechanisms Supporting the ‘Marine Flow’ of Setouchi

The Work Before Tourists Cross the Sea

People crossing the Shimanami Kaido by bicycle, those taking a ferry across the Onomichi Strait, and individuals capturing photos of shipyards on Mukojima—there is always a scene along the Setouchi coast where someone is “on the move.” However, for this flow to function, there are mechanisms operating in places unseen by tourists.

This autumn, three events coincided around Onomichi. A maritime safety training conducted by a ferry company for local residents, the port call and public display of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force’s mine sweeper “Etajima,” and the trial operation of a cycle ship—passenger vessels that can carry bicycles as they are.

At first glance, these may seem like separate news items. However, when viewed together, a structure emerges that supports maritime transportation in Setouchi through three layers: “safety,” “preservation,” and “connection.” Behind the glamorous flow, who is responsible for what? We followed each scene.

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Ferry Training: Designing Preparedness for the “Passengers”

The ferry route connecting Onomichi and Mukojima takes only a few minutes one way. For locals, it is a means of commuting and a part of daily life. Because of this, preparedness for emergencies tends to be overlooked.

About 60 local residents participated in the maritime safety training conducted by a ferry operator in Onomichi. The training involved using an actual operating ferry to experience procedures for wearing life jackets, confirming evacuation routes inside the vessel, and responding to overboard situations. Among the participants was a woman from Mukojima who uses this route daily, who remarked, “It was the first time I confirmed the location of the life jackets.”

What is noteworthy is that this training is designed for the “passengers” rather than the “operators.” While crew training is mandated by law, there are almost no systems in place for passengers—residents or tourists—to learn safe behaviors. In aviation, safety videos are shown before takeoff, but such practices are absent for short-distance ferries.

The ferry operator’s voluntary continuation of this training is rooted in the unique circumstances of Setouchi. The Onomichi Strait is narrow, measuring about 200 to 300 meters wide, with fast currents. There is also traffic from large vessels. It is crucial for “passengers” to understand that even on a short route, risks are not zero—this awareness itself becomes part of the safety mechanism.

One participant who completed the training stated, “Even though I ride it every day, I didn’t know anything about the structure of the ship.” The more embedded a route is in daily life, the more it tends to be placed outside of conscious awareness. This training quietly filled that blind spot.

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Mine Sweeper “Etajima”: The Work of Preparing the Sea Floor

On October 24 and 25, 2023, the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force’s mine sweeper “Etajima” docked at Onomichi Port and was opened to the public. Coinciding with the “Gourmet Summit in Onomichi” held nearby, many families and tourists were present.

A mine sweeper is a vessel designed to detect and remove mines from the sea. “Etajima” is the latest Awaji-class mine sweeper, commissioned in 2022, with a standard displacement of about 690 tons. Its hull is made of FRP (fiber-reinforced plastic), making it less susceptible to magnetic mines. The crew consists of about 50 members. Unlike flashy combat ships, its mission is a steady one: to ensure the safety of navigation routes in advance.

Here, we want to pause and reflect. The reason ferries can operate safely every day is that the sea floor of their routes is “prepared.” It is said that mines laid during World War II still remain in the Seto Inland Sea. Since the end of the war, the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force has disposed of approximately 7,400 mines. The work of mine sweeping is nothing less than the maintenance of the “foundation” of maritime flow.

At the public display, one crew member reportedly explained to visitors, “When our work is successful, nothing happens.” This statement encapsulates the essence of behind-the-scenes work. The achievement lies in the absence of incidents, and that achievement is invisible.

The port call of the mine sweeper in Onomichi has a geographical necessity. The Seto Inland Sea is one of Japan’s most densely trafficked inland sea routes, with many vessels navigating through areas with strong currents like the Kurushima Strait and Bisan Seto. Opportunities for residents along the routes to directly learn about the existence of mine sweeping units that protect these routes are actually quite rare. The vessel display was one of the few points of contact that brought unseen work into the “visible” realm.

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Cycle Ship: An Experiment to Fill the “Gaps” in the Flow

The third event was the trial operation of the cycle ship. For cyclists traversing the Shimanami Kaido, the approximately 70 kilometers between Onomichi and Imabari is perceived as a single line. However, in reality, there are several “gaps” in this line.

The most significant gap is between Onomichi and Mukojima. The automobile-only road of the Shimanami Kaido begins at the Shin-Onomichi Bridge on the Onomichi side, where bicycles are not allowed. Cyclists have no choice but to use a ferry, but existing ferries or boats can lead to waiting times during busy periods or have restrictions on the number of bicycles allowed.

The cycle ship attempts to fill this gap with a dedicated mechanism. It operates passenger vessels designed to allow bicycles to be brought on board without disassembly or packing, seamlessly connecting the movement of cyclists. The trial experiment is considering multiple route patterns, such as between Onomichi and Setoda, and also envisions shortcuts for sections along the Shimanami Kaido.

In the context of “cycle tourism” promoted by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism, the Shimanami Kaido is positioned as a model route representing Japan. As of 2019, the estimated annual number of cyclists using the Shimanami Kaido was about 350,000. As the region recovers from the COVID-19 pandemic, the cycle ship aims to enhance the overall experiential value of the route by smoothing the connection between “riding” and “crossing.”

What is intriguing here is that the cycle ship is not a mechanism solely for “tourists.” For residents living on the islands, bicycles are also a means of daily transportation. If an environment is established where they can take their bicycles on board for shopping or medical visits, it will ease their daily movement. The overlap of tourism and daily life within the same mechanism—this nested structure is what makes this project interesting.

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When the Three Layers Overlap

Ferry training prepares the “passengers,” the mine sweeper prepares the “foundation of the routes,” and the cycle ship fills the “gaps in the flow.” Each of these initiatives is driven by different entities with different objectives: ferry operators, the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, and local governments and transportation operators—each with a completely different angle.

However, when viewed together, a single structure becomes apparent. Maritime transportation in Setouchi is supported by three layers: the “safety layer,” the “preservation layer,” and the “connection layer.” If any one of these is missing, the flow cannot exist.

Moreover, these three layers share a common characteristic: they are all “invisible when functioning well.” Training is effective when no accidents occur. Mine sweeping is successful when there are no anomalies in the routes. The cycle ship functions when cyclists no longer have to think about the “gaps.” The invisibility of the outcomes—that is the fate of behind-the-scenes mechanisms, and that is why it is meaningful to pause and examine the structure in this way.

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Future Points of Interest

Each of these three movements has its next phase.

Regarding ferry training, the challenge will be how to expand the scale beyond 60 participants. Whether similar initiatives will be developed for other island routes such as Innoshima and Ikuchijima is also a question. Additionally, there will be a need to adapt the training content to accommodate inbound tourists. Providing safety instructions in multiple languages and addressing passengers from different cultural backgrounds is a challenge for the entire Setouchi region.

The port call and public display of the mine sweeper are also part of the Ministry of Defense’s public relations activities, but their significance as a point of contact with the community is not small. Whether regular exchange opportunities can be established, leveraging the geographical proximity to the Kure base of the Japan Maritime Self-Defense Force, will be of interest.

As for the cycle ship, the transition from trial operation to full-scale operation is the main focus. Ensuring profitability, differentiating from existing ferry operators, and adapting to seasonal fluctuations—there are many challenges to overcome. However, as a mechanism that has the potential to expand the “line” of the Shimanami Kaido into the “surface” of Setouchi, it is worth continuing to follow its developments.

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The sea of Setouchi appears calm. However, that calmness is not solely the result of nature’s blessings. Those who train, those who investigate the sea floor, and those who fill the gaps—these invisible hands overlap, allowing people to cross that tranquil surface with peace of mind.